Episode 3: Easy Tips For Minimizing Leash Reactivity During Walks

Hi everybody, and welcome back to Let’s Go for a Walk, installment number three. Today we are going to discuss a few things you can do if you have a reactive dog to help minimize reactivity during walks.

These tips are not a full behavior modification program. They are not necessarily meant to completely resolve the issue, but they are helpful strategies that can be used for most dogs who show reactivity, especially leash reactivity.

The first thing you can do to help with reactivity on walks is to teach what is known as an emergency U-turn. An emergency U-turn is a verbal cue you use to get your dog to turn around quickly. You should not have to use leash pressure to make your dog turn. This technique usually will not work if your dog is already reacting or has already seen something triggering and has begun to respond. You want to catch the moment before your dog starts reacting.

The reason this skill is valuable is because leash tension can worsen reactivity. It can make the dog feel trapped and can increase frustration. By teaching a verbal cue, you can accomplish the same thing without adding tension to the leash. It becomes predictable for the dog if you have taken the time to train it.

The key is to train your emergency U-turn at home in a completely neutral environment, and then gradually incorporate it into your walks. To teach it, you can use treats in your backyard. Start walking, give a cheerful cue such as “around,” hold the treat near your dog’s nose on the inside hand, turn your body, and reinforce the behavior. Practice this often.

My second tip is to use distance as your friend. When a dog reacts on leash, there is usually a threshold. A threshold is the distance at which your dog can no longer contain themselves. Many dogs will have consistent thresholds in similar situations. For example, your dog may not react to another dog at fifty feet but may always react at ten feet.

If your dog sees several dogs and reacts multiple times, their threshold may shrink. Suddenly, instead of reacting at ten feet, they may begin reacting at twenty-five feet. This is normal.

Start paying attention to where your dog’s thresholds are and in which contexts they appear. Then, do your best to stay outside those thresholds while you work on training. If you know your dog will react at ten feet, and you have the space to move, keep them at a farther distance when you see another dog. At that distance, you can work on redirecting their attention, helping them process their emotions, or doing other exercises without triggering a full reaction.

Once a dog reacts, the nervous system fires up, and the body prepares for fight or flight. At that point, your dog is not learning anything. Keeping them under threshold is key.

My third tip for helping your reactive dog on leash walks is to work on a game called the Look at That game. This is a pattern game developed by Leslie McDevitt. You can find information online on how to teach it. The basic idea is to teach your dog to look at a stimulus.

Always start with a neutral stimulus—not something your dog is already reacting to. You point, your dog looks, and you mark and reinforce. It is very straightforward. This game is useful for beginning to countercondition your dog to other dogs.

This is not a complete behavior modification plan, and sometimes it works better for some dogs than others. It depends on how severe the reactivity is, how the dog is feeling, and how frustrated they may be. For mild cases, or when the dog is under threshold, it can be extremely helpful.

Eventually, you can work up to the point where you are out on a walk and can point to another dog and say, “Look at that.” Your dog will look, and you will say, “Yes,” and treat. Over time, your dog learns that “look at that” predicts reinforcement, not a need to go on guard. This can be incredibly helpful.

Another tip, which is not strictly for walks but is still useful for reactivity, is to start using a long line. You need to do this safely. If you believe your dog may bite another dog, muzzle condition them and use a muzzle to keep everyone safe. You do not need to get close to other dogs.

Reactivity often comes from fear or frustration. A leash creates a barrier, and for some dogs, that barrier creates frustration. Giving them more freedom of movement can lower those emotions. For fearful dogs, more room to move can help teach them that they can choose flight, and that it is okay. It may take time, but a long line can be very useful.

If you decide to use this technique, my advice is to go to a park or another area where you have control over the environment. Choose a space without many dogs or tight quarters, but with enough activity that you can work on these skills.

Those are my tips for today. Reactivity is complex. Pain can contribute, and there are many possible factors. If your dog is very reactive and you have tried these tips without improvement, my advice is to find a qualified behavioral consultant or animal behaviorist to help you resolve these issues.

If you liked what you saw today, please like and subscribe to my channel. We will be back soon with the next installment of Let’s Go for a Walk. Thanks so much.